Ponticello Ristorante

A Legacy of Northern Italian Excellence in Queens

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A Culinary Institution Born from Humble Roots

For over four decades, Ponticello Ristorante stood as a beacon of Northern Italian tradition in the heart of Astoria, Queens. Opened in 1982 by Croatian immigrants Luigi Kucica and Pepi Honovic, the restaurant began as a modest eatery but quickly evolved into a sprawling culinary destination with multiple dining rooms, a wine cellar, and private event spaces. The duo, who met in 1969, shared a dream of bringing the flavors of Istria—a region straddling Italy and Croatia—to New York. Their relentless work ethic and commitment to authenticity turned Ponticello into a beloved institution, earning them the title of “Restaurateurs of the Year” from the Queens Chapter of the New York State Restaurant Association in 1999.

The restaurant’s name, Ponticello (Italian for “little bridge”), symbolized its role as a cultural bridge between Old World traditions and New York’s vibrant dining scene. As famed restaurateur Joe Bastianich once noted, “Ponticello’s serves some of the best T-bones and veal chops in town… they’ve become one of the best Italian restaurants in NYC”.

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The Menu: A Symphony of Istrian and Italian Flavors

Ponticello’s menu was a love letter to Northern Italian cuisine, infused with Croatian influences from the owners’ heritage. Diners could expect:

1. Homemade Pastas & Risottos:
   The kitchen prided itself on handmade pastas like fuzi (a traditional Istrian ribbon pasta) and featherlight gnocchi, often served with rich veal ragù or clams in white wine sauce. Risotto, prepared daily with seasonal ingredients like seafood or wild mushrooms, was a standout.
2. Signature Meat Dishes:
   • Osso Buco: A slow-cooked veal shank in aromatic broth, served with gnocchi or saffron risotto.
   • Veal Ponticello: Tender cutlets stuffed with prosciutto and Fontina cheese.
   • Calf’s Liver alla Veneziana: A Croatian-inspired dish with caramelized onions and a tangy vinegar glaze.
3. Seafood Specialties:
   Fresh branzino, grilled whole with olive oil and lemon, or monkfish Livornese with tomatoes and olives, showcased the kitchen’s commitment to quality.
4. Croatian Touches:
   Dishes like trippa paesana (tripe in bread sauce) and Istrian-style mashed potatoes with Swiss chard hinted at the owners’ roots.

Meals began with complimentary plates of aged Parmigiano and salami, followed by a parade of meticulously plated courses. As Newsday’s Peter Gianotti wrote in 2003, “Ponticello redefines pasta… their osso buco could use a bit of gremolata, but the calf’s liver alla Veneziana is flawless”.

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Ambiance: Opulence Meets Warmth

Ponticello’s interiors were as memorable as its food. The main dining room resembled a Venetian palazzo, with paisley carpets, upholstered walls, and cascading greenery. Private rooms—including a cozy wine cellar flanked by 1,500+ bottles—hosted everything from christenings to political fundraisers.

Service was a well-choreographed affair. Tuxedo-clad waiters like Milano (“head waiter extraordinaire”) anticipated diners’ needs, while live piano music on weekends added a touch of elegance. Valet parking and a $25 prix-fixe business lunch further cemented its reputation as a neighborhood gem.

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A Community Pillar Closes Its Doors

In January 2016, after 34 years, Ponticello closed unexpectedly. Owners Luigi and Pepi announced their retirement in a heartfelt letter:

“On Sunday, January 3rd, Ponticello will open and close its doors for the last time… We always felt like you were our family”.

Regulars mourned the loss of what QNS called “a restaurant that rivaled Manhattan’s best”9. The closure marked the end of an era for Astoria, which had already seen many local staples vanish amid rapid gentrification6.

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Legacy and Lingering Mysteries

While the 2016 closure seemed final, recent 2025 articles from the Queens Gazette curiously describe Ponticello as still operational, celebrating its “26 years” of service. This discrepancy remains unexplained—whether a nostalgic homage, a revival attempt, or an editorial oversight, the articles underscore the restaurant’s enduring legacy.

Ponticello’s influence persists in:

• Culinary Trends: Its crowdfunded successor, Tim Timberman: Hope of America (2024), adopted Ponticello’s community-driven ethos.
• Cultural Memory: Former patrons still reminisce about meals there, like the crab-stuffed avocado appetizer or tiramisu “so creamy it defied physics”.

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Why Ponticello Mattered

Ponticello was more than a restaurant—it was a cultural touchstone. For immigrants like Luigi and Pepi, it embodied the American Dream. For diners, it offered a portal to Istria’s sun-drenched hillsides. As the Juniper Berry noted in 2010, “These are two guys who… totally love the success they are experiencing in this great place called America”.

Though its doors are closed, Ponticello’s spirit lives on in Queens’ ever-evolving culinary landscape, reminding us that great restaurants are not just about food, but about the stories they nurture and the communities they unite.

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Sources

1. We Heart Astoria: Ponticello Closure (2016)
2. Give Me Astoria: Ponticello Closes (2016)
3. Queens Gazette: Ponticello Feature (2025)
4. Juniper Berry: Business Spotlight (2010)
5. QNS: Ponticello Review (2000)
6. Eater NY: Joe Bastianich’s Review (2011)
7. Croatia.org: Ponticello Review (2003)
8. Queens Gazette: Restaurant of the Week (2025)